“…Trois, deux, un…” Above, the Eiffel Tower bursts into dazzling sparkles. The stroke of midnight officially welcomes 2013. For every 20,000 glittering lights, a rain-soaked onlooker along the Champ de Mars shouts, “Bonne année!” “Happy new year!” I throw my English version to the deafening roar, as my husband sweeps in for the customary kiss. [...]
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